Dean Street and Fifth Avenue (Brooklyn)

Menus on the marble wall and a shout-out to Pellegrino Artusi, “the father of Italian cooking who almost single-handedly overcame regional divisions to create a truly national cuisine.” This reference was pointed out to us when we asked what kind of Italian cuisine this tiny new restaurant in a converted garage was serving: southern, northern, Tuscan, Venetian? In any case, what I had at Va Beh’ was simple, delicious, and inexpensive: roasted eggplant crostini, pickled grapes with pecorino, cavatelli with turkey sausage and broccoli rabe.