Broadway and 64th Street

Inside the barrel-vaulted Bar Boulud, “a terrine machine,” according to this New York Times review, “a pâté-a-palooza, dedicated to the proposition that discerning New Yorkers aren’t getting nearly enough concentrated, sculptured, gelatinous animal fat, at least not of a superior caliber.” The review also notes the “terrific wine list,” which I sampled in the form of a muscadet, by the glass, from a “special bottle,” according to the waiter. More expensive than you’d expect for a glass, but worth it, he promised. Isn’t that always the case? (He didn’t say that.)