This is the unexciting sticky rice dessert at
Lotus of Siam, the recently opened outpost of a Las Vegas establishment that was
called the best Thai restaurant in North America in Gourmet magazine a while back. So forget about the sticky rice and head straight for the fabulously delicious crispy seabass on drunken noodles. (Also the crispy duck in a Penang curry sauce spiked with cognac, which
this review in New York Magazine said was “worth a special trip.”)