West Broadway and White Street

in the old Montrachet space (in a location that a cab driver once told me was inaccessible by cab—not true, by the way) is the modern French restaurant called Corton. The space is glamorously minimal inside and deceptively low-key from the street. And here I had some of the best food I’ve eaten in years. (A slideshow of the various dishes accompanies this New York Magazine review.) Phrase I kept repeating all night: oh my god. (My inhibitions might have been lowered by a cocktail of champagne, Campari, and elderflower liqueur.)